6 July 2008
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The Virtual Saleyard - Buyers Guide
Some handy hints on using The Virtual Saleyard and what to do when you find that elusive special horse!
Searching
We have set up the Search facility so that you can specify a number of criteria such as breed, discipline etc on which to search. The shortlisted records are displayed in tabular form, with a thumbnail photo or the listing number linked to allow a detailed view of a selected listing. The list will feature Featured Listings first, then Enhanced Listings and then text listings.

Featured Listings are also be seen as banner ads at the top and sides of editorial pages within Cyberhorse, as well as The Virtual Saleyard itself. Clicking on a Featured Listing banner will normally take you to that vendor's own web site.

Enhanced Listings have at least one photo and when clicked on will appear in a popup within Cyberhorse.

There is also an Email to a Friend facility within each listing display.

Inspecting
Unless you are very brave, you will want to inspect your shortlisted horses before making a purchase commitment. If you are not  sure what to look for, here are some do's and don'ts. This list is not exhaustive (for instance we don't even talk about conformation) but combined with your own expert advice, may be of assistance.
  • Always try to see the horse in its normal environment. You can judge a great deal about how the horse has been treated, its general state of physical and mental health and its attitude to people and other horses. Examine the horse's normal accommodation for signs of vices such as crib biting, fence running etc.
  • Get the vendor to show you the horse on the lunge or under saddle. Think about whether they are handling the horse well or badly and if you would be better or worse than them in the same situation.
  • Always look carefully at a horse's feet. Apart from looking for obvious signs of bad shoeing or hoof care, the feet are the best indication of the quantity and regularity of feeding, as well as general health. Be wary of ridges or bumps on the hoof wall as these indicate periods of poor nutrition or health.
  • If getting a veterinary inspection (recommended) be aware that some vets are unduly harsh, failing horses for blemishes that are not really serious. Always ask 2 questions about any vet report which is less than perfect. Firstly, what chance out of 100 is there that this fault will stop me from using the horse for what I want to do? Secondly, what percentage of horses pass your examinations?
  • Remember that you will most likely be owning your horse for a period of several years. A $5,000 horse will "cost" only $500 a year as part of its purchase price, compared to the cost of upkeep. An extra $1,000 to buy a much better horse is trivial spread over its useful working life.
  • Many purchasers take along a friend to the inspection. Such friends frequently have unduly large influence on the purchase decision, to the extent that you can either be put off a perfectly reasonable horse, or conned into buying a dud. Before taking notice of their opinion, ask one simple question. How many horses have they bought for themselves that have turned out OK?
  • If you are buying from a regular vendor, don't be afraid to ask for references. When you have the names, follow them up. You need to know in general terms if your vendor is selling horses that produce a good result for their new owners.
  • If you have any doubts about whether your horse has been given a "mind altering substance" prior to your inspection, insist that your vet take a blood sample which can be subseqently tested.
  • Obviously a thin undernourished horse on a run down property can be a problem buy, but so also can be a fat glossy one at an up market stud. Look out for problems such as OCD that often arise from overfeeding. Also be careful of horses that have been reared on their own in smallish paddocks, no matter how beautifully fenced. They may have unmarked legs, but they have no social skills with other horses and regard humans as their equals (not good).
Negotiating
Remember the first rule of negotiation - there is always another option. If you are buying, no matter how interested you are in a particular horse, act as if its only one of several options you are considering. There are new horses being born every day and new ones coming on the market every minute, so there is little chance of you missing out.

Try to find out why the horse is on the market. Is the vendor really desperate? Do they need to sell to make room, to raise cash, leaving the property or they cost too much to feed? Many a good horse has been bought under these circumstances and the buyer has made a good investment. In these cases, a quick sale for cash will make the vendor very happy, so don't play too hard to get.

It can be a good tactic to show up for an inspection with your horse transport ready, so as to clearly indicate you'll be taking the horse with you if you like it. Many a vendor has come running after your empty truck as you drive away, offering you a better deal.

If it really matters to you that the horse is sound, pregnant, foolproof for kids etc get it in writing from the vendor and make the sale invalid if the horse doesn't turn out as promised. Be careful that any problems are not caused by something you have done though, as your subsequent legal battle may cost more than the horse ever could.

Use similar TVS listings as your guide to prices. Remember that most vendors are keen to sell and have built some fat into their asking price. Try also to get gear such as rugs, halters, bridles etc included in the deal. Maybe the vendor will keep the horse for you for a little while. Perhaps you can get it transported to its new home? Remember if you don't ask, you don't get.

 

 

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